Nafpaktos Castle: Holding the town in its embrace

As is usually the case, this model example of defensive architecture – wonderfully preserved to boot – is a hybrid of multiple construction phases, from antiquity all the way to the Ottoman rule, although its current iteration is largely due to the Venetians. Many have lusted after the castle – the Turks, the English, even pirates – but it was the Venetians who ultimately left their stamp on it, as the Lion of Saint Mark can be found at various spots around (the fortified) town.

Sometime around the 18th century, the diminutive harbor of Nafpaktos could no longer accommodate ships, which were growing larger with the passage of time, and it quickly became commercially unviable. In 1829, Nafpaktos overthrew the Ottoman rule once and for all, and became the new home of the Botsaris and Tzavelas clans – among other Souli natives – who were resettled there by the newly-minted Greek state. The families took up residence in former Ottoman mansions as a token of appreciation for their contribution to the struggle. Among them was the Botsaris Tower, which now permanently hosts an exhibition featuring reproductions of paintings, maps and plans from the historic Battle of Nafpaktos.

Most of the archaeological interest is limited to the upper defensive tiers, where the foundations of religious and administrative buildings, storage facilities, cisterns, the church of Prophet Elias and more are still visible. The Castle of Nafpaktos Museum, which opened its doors to the public in 2024, offers visitors the opportunity to admire sculptures, ceramics, coins and other significant finds from the Byzantine period and the Venetian era, as well as more recent times, along with rich informational material on the history of Nafpaktos and its role in the wider region over the centuries.

The panoramic view from the top of the hill, overlooking the entire Gulf of Patras with the Rio-Antirrio Bridge looming in the background, is not to be missed.